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PINNED photographer's Section.........Stay on topic please.

My friend who is a crunchy roll ambassador contacted me saturday and needed photos by today for her monster hunter guild maiden costume. Being an ambasador she is going to be judge for some contest and needed high res photo and what she had wouldnt cut it hence where I came in for a quick 1 hour shoot. Here is what we came out with
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that sunflare really annoys me...
 
The editing of this photo really pissed me off... I didnt have an assistant to help me hold my reflector... I miss aimed the reflector too causing really unflatering/uneven light on bottom of her face and super harsh light on her white shirt
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Indian Grand Prix 2012

We got some nice photographers here! Good work L, george, here are some pics I took during the Indian Grand Prix weekend in Nov 2012, in the buddh international Circuit, I have really just started, with the first DSLR i bought in Aug 2012, so comments and criticism are welcome :)

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damn rust I didn't know you were into photography, damn nice stop action. what camera do you have and what were your settings? I'm only asking because their is just a tad bit of noise and I think if I know the camera you have how to explain what I use for stop action that virtually eliminates noise. But the noise is not an issue I only see it because I know photography and teach online classes for adobe. Anyone else would know these are bad ass photos.
 
The editing of this photo really pissed me off... I didnt have an assistant to help me hold my reflector... I miss aimed the reflector too causing really unflatering/uneven light on bottom of her face and super harsh light on her white shirt
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Hey L,

If you start from scratch again I would recommend masking the face, shirt and background in three different layers, then go like this:

Face: do a levels adjustment until you are satisfied with most of the skin, then after you find a patch of skin on the face with great color, use your clone stamp tool at probably 30-60 percent, then click the skin that is good and slowly clone that skin over the areas that are a little to bright. after that, adjust the opacity until it gets darker or if you want to, use the overlay option and it will overlay the skin keep in mind though that overlay may darken the skin too much so I would recommend either the pin light or linear light at around 11 percent.

shirt: this should just need a simple levels adjustment to bring back some of the details. Or another simple way of doing it is just duplicating the shirt layer and then going to overlay and it will darken the shirt. you may have to do it a couple of times. I believe a simple levels adjustment will do fine though.

background: I wouldn't do nothing to the background unless it's obvious that you worked on the face and shirt. If so another levels adjustment should bring it back to looking like it's an original shot. feel free to ask any questions.
 
Recently did an engagement shoot for a friend - lemme know what ya'll think.

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Great photos, I do have some feedback though,

the 3rd photograph just has slightly blown out highlights, even for that look. The color is spot on but I'll give you the same advice I give my students online, It's easier to bring down highlights than to add highlights so I think a simple levels or curves adjustment in photoshop (they are essentially the same thing but if you used photoshop cs1 or two like I did then your use to the levels adjustment settings rather than the curves settings) would eliminate the blown out areas, I would mask the skin areas first then go from there. Also, unless you wanted the shadows in the background (some people like them others don't) then the simple work around for that is too take your subjects and just bring them forward about 5 to 10 feet forward and the shadows will disappear. the reason they now teach not to have shadows in the background (unless it's black and white then it's really a mute point) is that the shadows can make your highlights appear to be overblown because there is no soft contrast between them. The other simple way to eliminate shadows is to take one of your strobes and line it up directly with the wall behind them and then mask the light thats hitting your subject and sync it with the camera and it will eliminate any shadows behind them while not touching your subjects. Other than that I really like your work. Great poses.
 
It doesn't take a pro to make beautiful work. They are really good but here's my advice:

your first photo is excellent, great contrast however, take a couple of photos and then look at them and look at your surroundings, you have some distracting details in it. That being the far right with the street light and the wires. I tell my students until they are use to being able to see distracting things first hand, say distraction three time with every photograph taken, I know it sounds childish but once you do that with every photograph your brain will start getting use to automatically looking for distracting features. a simple turn of the camera to the left would eliminate that. Other than that you do great work keep it up.
 
Hey L,

If you start from scratch again I would recommend masking the face, shirt and background in three different layers, then go like this:

Face: do a levels adjustment until you are satisfied with most of the skin, then after you find a patch of skin on the face with great color, use your clone stamp tool at probably 30-60 percent, then click the skin that is good and slowly clone that skin over the areas that are a little to bright. after that, adjust the opacity until it gets darker or if you want to, use the overlay option and it will overlay the skin keep in mind though that overlay may darken the skin too much so I would recommend either the pin light or linear light at around 11 percent.

shirt: this should just need a simple levels adjustment to bring back some of the details. Or another simple way of doing it is just duplicating the shirt layer and then going to overlay and it will darken the shirt. you may have to do it a couple of times. I believe a simple levels adjustment will do fine though.

background: I wouldn't do nothing to the background unless it's obvious that you worked on the face and shirt. If so another levels adjustment should bring it back to looking like it's an original shot. feel free to ask any questions.
The way i edit photos is different from most. I edit in photoshop then do general edits in lightroom and it was the small adjustments to the exposure that really annoyed me (would go lightroom into photoshop but my camera raw's dont match use 4.4 lightroom and 5.1? with photoshop would need cs6 to match the sliders). Ill try something like that next time if i get uneven lighting thanks george.
 
damn rust I didn't know you were into photography, damn nice stop action. what camera do you have and what were your settings? I'm only asking because their is just a tad bit of noise and I think if I know the camera you have how to explain what I use for stop action that virtually eliminates noise. But the noise is not an issue I only see it because I know photography and teach online classes for adobe. Anyone else would know these are bad ass photos.


Sorry for some reason, I didn't follow this thread again!. I have just gotten into photography, I used to have a super zoon, but I had been trying to save up for a good DSLR. These were clicked using a Nikon D600 with a 80-200 Push Pull 2.8D lens (friends), and I loved the results, I had started using a DSLR about 3 months before I took these, so I was pretty happy with myself :)

The problem with the D600 I faced was, there was too much dust spilling on the sensor, and over time it got really bad I could see spots @ F 5.6, F8. So I ultimately returned the camera and got a D800, which I absolutely love so far. I also got a 70-200 2.8G and a 24-70 2.8G, I'm doing my first wedding this week, so I have my fingers crossed!

But I'd love to learn from you George :)
 
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