47Ronin Cars!

Discussion in 'Auto Section' started by TomKat, Aug 19, 2011.

  1. tuc0
    Online

    tuc0 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,459
    Likes Received:
    142
    Location:
    San Jo, CA
    Damn CupFOL! You're some hardcord driftin' mofo! You must have some mechanical talent. Hmmmm.. How do you all get all kinds of $$$ for this expensive hobby? Imah thunkin' pay outs like the movie The Fast & Furious??? BTW, I love that LS-1 mod.
     
  2. Shaun fbody
    Offline

    Shaun fbody The 47 Ronin

    Messages:
    1,907
    Likes Received:
    56
    Location:
    Visalia, CA
    the CTS-V is a nice daily driver - the GTO is a nice weekend cruiser
     
  3. Shaun fbody
    Offline

    Shaun fbody The 47 Ronin

    Messages:
    1,907
    Likes Received:
    56
    Location:
    Visalia, CA
    CUP - the LS1 in that car is a BEASTTTTTTTT - my GTO has LS1 (with LS6 heads) and weighs 3670lbs.... and moves really well with the 6 speed gearbox and 3.46 rear end
     
  4. Cup Full of LOL
    Offline

    Cup Full of LOL Contributor

    Messages:
    1,039
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    El Segundo, California
    My car is more than 1,000lbs lighter than your car. It's 2,650lbs stock, and I have it all gutted out (no rear seats, no sound barrier, no AC, and a whole lot of other things). My car has shed about 70-80bls worth of stuff....but the roll cage will add that right back (That's why I gutted it out). The LS1 + T56 transmission is about 50-60lbs heavier then the iron block inline 4 engine it comes stock with, but only has 155hp compared to the 350hp of a STOCK LS1.

    The KA24e 2.4 liter iron block (140hp, single cam version) is the stock Nissan engine that was originally in my car MANY years ago. No power what so ever (unless you boost and/or build). Then I got the turbo charged SR20det 2.0 liter aluminum block (217hp, from S14 model). It was an awesome engine, but later found out, I needed more to keep up with the competition.....everyone was going for more easy power.....the v8. So that's when I went with the LS1 (385hp version from the vette). Easy reliable power.
     
  5. Shaun fbody
    Offline

    Shaun fbody The 47 Ronin

    Messages:
    1,907
    Likes Received:
    56
    Location:
    Visalia, CA
    exactly, reliable power. I have 84k on the goat and im at 126% of factory spec on hp. I went to a cars & coffee meet a while back where there was an RX7 with LS1 in it, guy said that with as much as he put into the Wankel engine as far as tuning and gaskets (lol) he could have purchased a used turn-key LS7 - I didnt disagree. Car sounded sick as hell too, and of course moved like a Z06 (C6).

    i'd love to see your Silvia in action. damn thats a bad ass build
     
  6. PoWdA
    Offline

    PoWdA New Member

    Messages:
    716
    Likes Received:
    1
    Wow... I am going to be honest and say that putting any engine other than a Wankel Rotary engine in a an RX-7 sounds like the most retarded thing in the world to me. I mean, if you are not prepared to deal with a rotary engine why own an RX-7?

    FWIW I had an RX-7 back in the day and yes the "gaskets" (he most likely meant apex seals) that he was talking about do get expensive, if you keep blowing them.

    That disturbs me greatly to hear someone would put anything but a rotary in an RX-7.
     
  7. Cup Full of LOL
    Offline

    Cup Full of LOL Contributor

    Messages:
    1,039
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    El Segundo, California

    Well, let me tell you why it's NOT "retarded".....for guys that are in profession drifting competitions. The 13B vs the LS1......the LS1 will ALWAYS be superior to the 13B mod for mod, no argument there. Let's not even get into the talk about torque. Do you know what type of monster the LS series of engines turn into when you turbo charged them?! Or TWIN turbo charge them?! Off the line, you need to be near your competitor in drifting competitions. One of the things you get docked points for is how close you are to your opponent. Rotary's are awesome (sound awesome too), but engines like the 2J, RB, and even built SR's walk 13B's during a slide. So imagine the might of the V8. And once again, reliability comes into play once again at high RPM's during drag, drift, or time attack. Look at some video on YouTube. The Nissan Silvia (inline 4 SR20det), Skyline (inline 6 RB26dett), Supra (2JZ GTE)....guess who wins?? That's right, the Nissan Silvia comes 1st, Skyline, Supra, then the RX-7 in 4th. Battle of the JDM legends. You'll have to do crazy mods to the RX-7 to keep up with the others plus a top of the line driver. Mod for mod.....forget it.

    If I had a FD RX-7 however, I would leave the 13B rotary in it.....unless I was doing competitions with it. Then I would go for more power for the buck.
     
  8. Shaun fbody
    Offline

    Shaun fbody The 47 Ronin

    Messages:
    1,907
    Likes Received:
    56
    Location:
    Visalia, CA
    to a collector, yes you want the rotary engine in it, but to a racer, the LS series pwns... you dont want to put $100k into a drift car and have it break in competetion...enter the LS1 hehe
     
  9. SigSauerKraut
    Offline

    SigSauerKraut New Member

    Messages:
    20
    Likes Received:
    0
    Location:
    San Bruno, CA
    Say Cup, could I ask where you source your jdm front clips and engines? I've always loved the look of the jdm s13 and want to put one together some day. Also, what exactly do you need to do to fit a oem jdm s13 front clip? I've heard some people say you need to make a few cuts around the radiator support, other people tell me it bolts right on.
     
  10. Cup Full of LOL
    Offline

    Cup Full of LOL Contributor

    Messages:
    1,039
    Likes Received:
    9
    Location:
    El Segundo, California
    Just look on "craigslist", "ebay", or "zilvia" man, and some other forums. I'm lucky I live in So-Cal and got mine at Garage BOSO (Ross Petty's shop in Gardena) for $600 (triple projector headlights, headlight brackets, fenders, hood, and bumper). The part about "a few cuts around the radiator support" is correct. Some front ends are aftermarket and do NOT require any cutting, but that doesn't answer your OEM JDM question. So if you want to go the easy route, go after market.......unless you want to make it look OEM/JDM old-school like mine, get out the power saws :p

    So essentially, both things you heard are correct.
     

Share This Page